6 Secrets of Lowering Home Electric Bill

lower electric bill

Energy has made our lives pleasant at all times without any difficulty. Today, it is quite hard to live without energy consumption for daily work. Sufficient energy is available for a lifetime but it does not mean that there is no need to conserve it. Numerous ways have been derived for lowering home electric bills. Here are a few examples.

6 Secrets of Lowering Home Electric Bill

  1. Good roof coating helps in deflecting heat. This ensures that your home would significantly maintain temperature on the inside.


  1. The well insulated attic will facilitate you in keeping your entire house cool. Attics are one of the significant parts of any house especially in relation to the cooling system.


  1. Securing leaks around your house will also aid you in controlling energy lost. So, make it sure that leaks are sealed well. Consequently, less work is done by cooling and heating system of your house. Eventually, it cuts down your house electric bill.


  1. Reduce the thermostat to save a lot of money. 1°C equates the 5% of electric bill savings. So, always keep your thermostat at low temperature. You can keep it further low during sleeping or when you are out of home for saving more money. 68 °F is an ideal temperature of thermostat during winter season.


  1. Water heaters also utilized a large amount of energy. Therefore, try to limit its use. It is the second largest energy consumer after cooling/heating system of your house.


  1. Use of energy efficient materials and appliances around your home is another way to save your money at energy bills. These commercially available items would considerably add to the reduction home energy bills.


Squeak Be Gone Remedies

Squeaking doors can be a really irritating problem. Although many would consider it to be a major problem, it isn’t! In fact, it’s a minor house problem that even you yourself can fix, and here’s how to.squeky Doors

Stop, Look And Listen

First, you should know where that squeaking sound is coming from. You can do this by stopping, looking and listening carefully. You should perform the “swing test” first before you go off buying a whole new door. Start off by making sure that your surroundings is quiet. Then, you should stand on the side of the door in which you remember that the squeak was loudest. When you’re in position already, swing the door in a gentle manner, covering its complete arc. Do this action repeatedly and try to vary the speed while doing so. While swinging the door, you should take note of some factors. Try to note exactly where the squeak comes from. Then try to note when it is loudest. See whether it is loudest when you swing the door fast or slow. Then lastly, find out why exactly the squeak is happening. Finding out why is a very crucial factor, since this dictates what remedy you should use.

General Remedy

Once you’ve determined where the squeaks are, you can do two general remedies. First, tighten all the screws in the hinges. Then, get a flat-headed screwdriver. Carefully tap its blade in between the hinge body and the hinge-pin head to separate them. After doing this, get a 3-in-1 sewing machine oil and squeeze in a few drops of it into the small space between the pin-head and the hinge body. If you don’t have sewing-machine oil, you can also use a WD-40, and
spray some into the same space.

By applying some lubricant in the space, you enable the lubricant to seep in into the remaining length of the pin, which is inside the hinge body. Thus, you give the best lubrication coverage that you can give for the hinge. Doing this would generally resolve your squeaking problems-if you were accurate on determining the source, that is. However, if you pinpointed the wrong
source, then most probably your squeak would still be there.

All Hope Is Not Lost

If you pinpointed the wrong source of the squeak, don’t worry then! By this point in time, you have determined that the hinges are not the problem. Then, most probably it’s a wood on wood kind of squeak problem. To solve this kind of squeak, you would have to do the squeak test again. After which, you have to release the bind, since the problem may be the hinge binding on the wood. While performing the swing test, heed on how the door’s hinge-side settles into the door-jamb.

Also, take note of how it makes a final contact with your door-stop. This is when stop, look and listen wouldn’t be enough, since you would have to make use of touch. If you feel that it has springy feel, when the door is approximately in the closed position, odds are very good that it is hinge-bound. This can be the cause of the squeak since the door is forced to rub with the jamb material. To repair this kind of problem, you need to remove your door by removing the screws on the hinges’ jamb side and leaving the hinges intact with the door itself. Then, you need to chisel out some hinge recesses towards the direction of the hinge barrel. Then, reinstall the door and perform the swing test again. If this doesn’t solve your problem, try chiseling out
more recess. It can be a trial and error process. However, it can be fixed.

Self-Closing Doors

Self-Closing Doors

Do you have a door that constantly closes on its own when you want it to stay open? This can be a real annoyance.  It was probably not hung correctly to begin with. The door is not level or has twisted slightly.

What to Check:

The first thing to check is whether or not you have a loose hinge. Try tightening the screws. This may solve the problem.  Consider replacing the screws with longer ones to help keep the problem from coming back.

If the door is still closing on its own, it may be that the hinges are out of alignment. Start by standing in front of the door and see if the hinges are vertically in line. If one or more of the hinges are set deeper than the others, you will have an issue with the door swing. Additionally, if you stand in the doorway and look at the hinges from this angle, they should line up vertically again. If they vary to the left or to the right, this could also be the cause of the problem.

The easiest fix is to try and increase the tension of the hinge pin to create more friction. First remove a hinge pin from the door. We recommend removing the middle one using a hammer and a small Phillips head screwdriver or large nail. On a solid surface such as a driveway or sidewalk, tap the side of the pin with the hammer.  You may need to put one end on a small rock so that it will bend just slightly. They bend pretty easily, so don’t hit it too hard.  The goal is to create a very slight bend in the pin. Once you have a slight bend, replace the pin in the door. This bend will create enough friction to keep the door from closing on its own. If this does not work at first, try again on another pin.

If all else fails, try to insert a shim. Remove all the screws from the bottom hinge. Let the door hang loose.  Cut shims the same size as the hinge from a cereal box. You may need to cut two or three to fill the space created when you remove the screws. Put the screws back in and you should be good to go.

Know Where Your Shut Off Valves are Located & How to Operate Them

Know Where Your Shut Off Valves are Located & How to Operate Them

It is important as a homeowner to know where your all the shut off valves for your home are located and how to operate them.


For your water supply lines it is important to locate your main shut off valve.  Simply turn your shut off valve till it is perpendicular to the pipe. This will stop the flow of water to the entire house. You should be familiar with the individual shut off valves in your home as well. They are known as isolating valves and they are at your washing machine, sinks and toilets. You will want to know how to shut off these valves in case of a leak or if water starts shooting out of a pipe. The sooner you stop the water the less damage may occur. Exterior faucets may also have isolating valves but because of their exterior nature these valves may not be located by the valve itself. Instead they can be located near an interior sink or by the main shut off valve.


You should also know the location of your gas shut off valve. However if you notice a gas leak you should leave your house immediately and call your utility company. In many homes the shut off valve for your gas is located at the meter. A wrench is needed to turn the gas off and on. Some homes have a second gas shut off valve that is similar to water shut off valve. Isolated gas shut off valves have a lever that rotates ninety degrees. When the lever is in line with the pipe the gas is flowing. When it is perpendicular to the pipe the gas is shut off.  There may also be smaller levers that will feed to individual appliances in your home.


Some of your appliances may also have shut off valves at the units themselves. If you shut off the gas supply on appliances keep in mind that the pilot light will go out. This includes furnaces, gas fireplaces and hot water heaters. Once you turn the gas back on you will need to relight the pilot light on each appliance.

How to Fix Nail Pops

How to Fix Nail Pops

If you notice small bumps protruding from your wall this is likely what contractors call a nail pop.  As new homes settle drywall shrinks causing nails or screws to protrude from the drywall.

Here is a list of supplies needed to fix nail pops.

  • Phillips screw driver
  • nail punch
  • hammer
  • quick dry spackling compound
  • putty knife
  • sanding block
  • painting supplies

You need to first find out if the protrusion is caused by a screw or a nail.  You can do this by pressing a Phillip’s screw driver into the center of the protrusion.  If it’s a screw the screwdriver will set into the head of the screw and turn letting you know it is a screw.  Simply turn it until it is slightly recessed into the wall.  If the pop is caused by a nail take your nail punch and press over the opening and tap the end of the nail punch with your hammer until the nail is slightly recessed into the wall.

Next apply a layer of quick dry spackling compound over the surface.  Allow this to dry and then sand the surface.  You may need to apply another layer of compound and sand it again.  Once you have allowed this to completely dry you can apply fresh paint over it.

If the nail pop is in the ceiling you will need to set the original nail and then drive in a second nail approximately one inch from the old one or the nail pop could reoccur.

How to Find a Stud in the Wall

How to Find a Stud in the Wall

As a home owner you will often times need to know how to find the studs are located in your walls. Generally studs are spaced sixteen to twenty-four inches away from each other.

Different Methods for Locating Your Studs

There are a few different methods to locating your studs. The most accurate way is with a battery operated stud finder. First make sure your stud finder is calibrated. Hold down the calibration button while sliding it along the wall until the lights are green and it quits beeping. Slowly slide it along the wall, when it starts to beep it is the beginning of the stud and when it stops you have crossed over. You should slide this over the area a couple of times until you locate the center of the stud and then mark it.

Another way is to place a flashlight on its side against the wall.  Look for where the light changes or you see a slight difference in the wall texture. This indicates where the drywall seams are screwed into the studs. You can follow that seam down the wall and the line should be consistently there and may run into the baseboard.  You can check this by the nails in the baseboards that they may have been filled in with wood filler.

If you do not have either tool you can knock on the wall. It will have a hollow tone. As you knock over a stud, the sound will become denser.

How to Adjust a Toilet for the Best Flush

How to Adjust a Toilet for the Best Flush
Do you have a toilet that always seems to be running? This is sometimes caused by a fill valve that has been set too high, which causes the water level to be higher than the overflow tube.

Toilet Fill Valves

Toilet fill valves control the flow of water from the supply lines to refill the tank between flushes. Fill valves typically come in two types. One contains an arm with a float connected to the top of the valve. The other type contains a floating cylinder that moves up and down the valve body.
All fill valves are adjustable. Some can be adjusted with a screwdriver and some by moving the float up or down manually. Sometimes there is a spindle you can screw up or down to adjust.

Water Level

If the water level is too low, it may cause a weak or improper flush. You’ll want to check to see that the water fills to the appropriate line in the tank and readjust if needed. Sometimes the fill valve is adjusted too low and the tank does not fill up with enough water. Those same adjustments you made to lower the water level will fill the tank to the correct height for a good flush.

Water Supply

Check to see if there is an adequate water supply to the toilet. Check the outlet on the angle stop to see if it is a ½” iron pipe connection. A toilet flush requires the additional water that enters the tank once the flush begins. When the water supply lines are too small, they restrict new water from entering the tank fast enough to aid in the flush.

Finally, sometimes the toilet starts to flush but during the process it stops suddenly when a flapper valve reseals onto the flush valve seat. If this happens, usually the flapper valve is not buoyant long enough during the flushing process. Replacing the flapper valve should fix the problem.
Sometimes after all of the adjusting that you can do, you still have a flush that is not strong enough to clean the bowl. Try this. Pour a five gallon pail of hot water into the toilet bowl. Add some Drano. Then go to the water tank and add some Dawn dish washing liquid into the fill valve. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes and flush. If it is still too weak, you may have to do it again.

Changing a Furnace Air Filter

air filter

Regularly changing the air filter in your furnace can improve the air quality in your home and improve your HVAC system efficiency.  It is recommended that you change your air filter every three month.  However, if you have pets, smoke or have allergies you should change your filter more frequently.

Location of filter:

Before you purchase your replacement filter you need to determine the location of your filter. You then need to determine what type of filter and the size of the filter you need. The most common location of the filter is between the furnace air handler and the return air vent. Some furnaces have filters inside the air handler and the least common location is in the return air vents. The size measurements of the filter should be on the side of the existing filter. If they are not then you will have to use a tape measure and measure it.  You will need to measure the length, width and depth of the existing filter. Be sure to write the measurements down.

Type of filter:

There are several different types of filter available. Either the light weight or the high efficiency filters. For even better quality there are filters with the HEPA filtration and allergy reduction technology. These filters come in one inch as well as thicker two to four inch versions.  Less common types are electrostatic and re-useable washable filters.

When to change filter:

When you are ready to change your furnace filter turn your furnace thermostat to the off setting. Remove the old filter being careful to not knock the old dust off of the filter. Before you install the new filter write the date on it for a quick reference in the future. Insert the new filter and make sure the arrows are pointing in the direction the airflow flows through the system. Make sure your filter is secure and then turn your furnace thermostat back on.


Easy Steps For Tiling Your Kitchen Floor

Tiling is one job that most people would rather not learn how to do since it can be scary that you may make some mistakes in the process. However, it is actually a lot easier than what many might think. In fact, it can save you a whole lot of money in contrast to hiring a professional for the job. As long as you know the do’s and don’ts then this task is a no-brainer for you.

Choosing Your Tiles

To start off, you have to choose the tiles that you want to use. Tiles come in different sizes, colors, textures, materials and finishes. It can also depend on how you want the room to be and the overall design and feel of the room.

 Measurements and Computations

You will need to measure out your floor area. You will also have to deliberate on whether you want the tiles to go under any kind of fittings and units. Generally, it is better if you tile under the fittings. This is recommended so that if you have to move appliances in the future, like a fridge, then you do not have to lift it up and over the edge of your new tiles.


Be sure that you have an even coverage of adhesive placed on your sub-floor. The type of adhesive to use would depend on your sub-floor or the surface you are tiling. If it is a concrete floor, then you can use a rapid setting adhesive. However, be sure that you do not spread too much of the mixture at once, since it can set in as fast as 30 minutes.

If it is a wooden sub-floor, then you need a flexible adhesive. The bag or tub should say if the adhesive is flexible. If you have slate, then you need to use gray adhesive. If you’ll be using marble, then you need a white adhesive. This is so that no color coming from the underside would bleed and ruin your design.


When you are done fixing your tiles on the floor, and after you have allowed enough time for it to dry, then you will have to do some grouting. If you have natural tiles, like marble, slate, limestone, granite, travertine, and porcelain, you need to seal them first before you can grout them. You have to use a specialized impregnating sealer so that they will be waterproof and can be more resistant to dirt and staining.

Mix up the grout and apply it using a grout float to your tiles. Try to work over the gaps until they’re all filled. If you have white marble tiles, then you need to use a white grout instead of gray since the gray kind can stain the marble.

To finish off, wipe out the excess grouts that are bulging from your tiles using a sponge. Also, use a grout finisher or your finger to smooth out the grout lines. After this, stand back, relax as you wait for your work to dry up!

Basic Faucet Replacement

Faucet replacement is a very easy task that anyone can do. Here are the basics that you should know about faucet replacement.

Being Prepared and Choosing Your Faucet

You should pick out a new faucet and have it on hand before you start to remove your old faucet. Having it on hand before removing the old one will make things easier and faster for you.  For your bathtubs and sinks, you can get single or double handled faucets. Generally, faucets have a standard size regarding their hook-ups, depending on their use. For kitchen faucets, you can usually find units with an 8 inch hookup. Bathroom vanity faucets usually come in 4 inches, while bathtubs come in 8 inches.

Tools That You Need


channel lock pliers

or a basin wrench

Steps to a New Faucet

First, you should turn off all water supply lines that are linked to your faucet.  Once you have shut off your water supply you can remove the supply lines coming from both sides of your faucet. After that you should remove the large retainer nuts that are holding your faucet to the sink. When you are done with this, remove the old faucet from the sink.  Clean up the area where the old unit was. Once you are done cleaning up, get your new unit and place it in the holes. Then you can tighten the retaining nuts and hook up your water supply lines. Use plumbers putty or thread tape to prevent leaks or dripping on the joints, specifically in between the faucet and sink, or the supply line and the faucet. Turn on your water supply and do some tests for leaks and other defects. If you have some leaks, try reinstalling it again and make sure that you tightly place each part where they should be.